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The pic with the dog house off is the way it is at the moment. Waiting to take the engine to the machine shop next week its supposed to rain here the next three days. That's half the battle. It's also interesting to see the flathead six being rebuilt. Had an opportunity to obtain a '42 Coupe years ago - but did not - unfortunately. Go for it. Dropped the engine off at the machine shop, it turned out to be a sunny day after all, and was told it will be a while before they start on it.
They've been recommended by several people so I'll wait, it's not like I don't have plenty other things to do. I wonder if there were any overhead valve conversions for the flathead 6 like there were on the 4's and 8's? I see that you found your way to the Our Cars and Restoration Project section. I think that you'll find a good number of people that visit here will find interest in your project.
Besides there's a lot of knowledge that passes thru here as well. I saw your comment on the other thread about maybe you should be doing a better job on your project. The fact that your tackling your project is a pretty good start and we all know that time and experience goes a long way and of course a bit money now and then doesn't hurt either. Do what you can when you can and tackle those things that you feel comfortable in doing.
Asking questions is also not a bad thing. With all that said I'll close this long winded post, but at least I'm now subscribed for updates. Good luck with your project. It's more than I'd want to do I think. I called the machine shop back, we talked about it and they said if I have the skills to reassemble it that will definitely save me time and money. I definitely do have the skills and the tools so one day next week I'll go get the engine and strip it to the block.
I'll take them just the block, cam and valves in it still, and the crank with rods and pistons loose. It has one cylinder with broken rings, but luckily no real scoring in the cylinder walls. It does however have a couple chips, for lack of a better word, in a couple cylinders. I thought when I first took the head off that I may have done that, but upon closer inspection there are a couple places so far down in the cylinders I couldn't have done them if I had tried to.
Got out the digital calipers and checked the cylinder bores, dead on 3. Crank looks really good, I think just polished will do. Here's a funny thing I found though, every connecting rod is stamped on the rod and the cap with that cylinders number. It also has two different style pistons in it, in alternating cylinders. I would think Ford wouldn't do that from the factory, I wonder if the engine hasn't been worked on. I am attaching pictures of the pistons, if you look you'll see where there are relief slots up top how they are cut different.
Plus, three of the pistons say Ford in Ford script, the other three have no writing on them. I am also attaching pictures of the dried sludge crap that is inside the valve spring area, geeeez what a lot of crap. Oh yeah, the pan is full of sludge too. I have had 2 Fords with 6 cyl motors. Well, I guess any progress is progress.
I spent nearly 8 hours today taking the doors off and sanding them. That orange color is the result of a vinegar bath, which I was told will stop rust cheaper and as well as the exensive stuff. That info came from youtube from a body shop in Cali - Southwest Rods and Customs, lets hope its good info.
Anyway, next week I hope to resand the doors again, clean that dust off, tack cloth them and put a coat of epoxy primer on them. Looking good. Moving right along. Completing the bigger parts always seems like the progress go faster. Wow time flies when you're grinding away rust. I spent 3 hours tonight with a right angle grinder and a wire wheel hitting all the contours of the door jambs, fire wall and window wells and running board wells etc.
I think I am finally done with the grinder work on the body, I have to re-check the door edges and all the window trim rings. Went and got the disposable cup system for my spray gun, that'll make it much quicker clean-up. With the weather gonna be raining the next 4 days I won't be spraying any thing but I can be geting ready to late next week.
I may catch some heat for this but from the people at Eastwood I bought their rust convertor and rust encapsulator. I'll be using this on the inside of the body and in the wheel wells. Inside the car I plan on using it everywhere it won't be seen.
It's going under carpet, behind door panels, under the dash etc etc etc. It's going under the hood too, like on the frame rails and basically all the chassis parts from front to back. I think the next update will be when I have picture worthy progress. Yep, this engine debuted in 41 and lasted until either 46 or 47 as a G series engine. After that they were modified and called an H series engine. I heard from an old guy once that the 6 was a complete embarrassment to Henry, it performed better than the V8 in many ways!!
I know in current times, people that have them love them. I know i said I wasn't posting again until I had some good pics, but I have news to report. Had a guy come look at it to give me a guesstimation on paint, and a minor amount of body work. When I told him I wasn't going to be spending that much on just a paint job and minor body work, he informed me they only do show quality work is why the high guesstimate.
The last discussion we had was that after I do all the body work and primer work he'll come back and do another closer guesstimate. I've decided to do that too, it just isn't worth risking all that work and money for a few dollars more. It's going to be another month or so on the engine, but that's life. For what my thoughts are worth, I agree with you on the paint. I feel pretty certain I'll be able to get a good paint job for less than that, it may not be concours show worthy, and that's okay by me.
Okay, I maybe opening a can of worms, but I going to open it anyway. Any one have any one they know and will recommend?? A good quality paint job is only as good as the body work underneath. You can't make bad body work look good no matter how well it's painted, but you can make a bad paint job look good by properly color sanding it given that there's enough paint on the car to begin with.
Too many people start out their color sanding with WAY too high of a grit number, such as The problem is that the smooth grit will simply "follow" the divets or "orange peel". It's best to knock down the orange peel peaks with grit paper first being ever so careful and using it lightly , then gradually move up through , , , , etc. Of course, if its painted with metallic paint, especially the "bass boat" type metalics I see too much of, it's much more difficult to color sand without ruining.
I agree! An Ardun head on an inline six, with maybe a split exhaust and dual carbs? That would probably look and sound awesome! I believe I read an article in "Rod and Custum" magazine a couple years back, on how to get a really nice paint job using Rust-o-leum rattle cans. Don't laugh! I plan on investigating this further and trying it myself. I bumped into an article online about some guys doing a Falcon in rustoleum Closer to home I did a motorcycle tank a few years ago in rustoleum.
I prepped and prepped, then prepped more before I shot the paint. Turned out good and really looked like a professional paint job but man did it take forever to dry! It definately won't be a rattle can or Rustoleum brush job. If you are not interested in a show car, then you can paint it yourself. I plan on attending some local shows, only to be proud of what it is and have some fun, not to win any points or money. It had a engine in it; I replaced that with the correct block, which is now bored 30 over.
The engine has new pistons and rings, valves, bearings, oil pump; rebuilt carburetor, distributor, starter, generator; all new wiring, battery Optima dry cell , regulator. The suspension is rebuilt, as are the brakes new master and wheel cylinders, new shoes, new springs, freshly turned drums.
The clutch is new. The tires are new. You can see from the pictures that the body has been removed from the frame. I tried my hand at sheet metal work, found that I was terrible at it, and took the car to a body shop where they fixed its little wrinkles and holes, and painted it Ford Fathom blue.
It has currently collected a series of little scrapes and chips thanks to me All the instruments are NOS; the Deluxe didn't come with a clock or a radio , but I like how the clock looks and you could get it as an option , so I added one--it works. The heater is rebuilt and correct for the year. There is no radio, but if you want to rebuild and install one, I have an original. The dash and the window trimming are all wood grained.
The flat glass is all new and has the correct Ford bugs. The rear window the only curved piece is original--and not yet in the car because the headliner has to be installed first. Speaking of the interior, the springs are all cleaned and ready to be reupholstered, and the front seat frame is cleaned, repaired, and painted.
I have the correct Cartouche from Mac's interior kit for it, which, of course, is included. I also have a nice set of original interior lights. The car also has a new exhaust system which I am currently in the process of installing and a new gas tank.
The model range saw Ford redesign the Super Deluxe range. Released, as usual, in the September of the previous year, the launch received a somewhat muted. The Special Fordor is part of Ford's 2GA model series. Its 6 cylinder, side valve naturally aspirated engine has 2 valves per cylinder and a displacement of The design would continue in an aborted model year and would be restarted in and produced until when the more modern Fords.